The Enduring Mystery of Steak Fries
Steak fries. Two words that evoke a sense of promise when considered individually, yet together they can inspire a sense of dread. Plank-like in shape and pallid in color, they awkwardly occupy a space between the categories of “fry” and “baked potato,” lacking the satisfying crunch of the former and the creamy richness of the latter. Their decline in popularity has been so pronounced that any encounter with a steak fry feels akin to an encounter with a Visigoth—one can’t help but wonder, how are you still here?
This question came to mind during a recent visit to Park Ave Kitchen, a restaurant by renowned chef David Burke, located in Midtown, despite its name suggesting a different locale on Lexington Avenue. Steak fries have become a rare sight at upscale dining establishments, and Park Ave Kitchen boasts a contemporary menu featuring dishes such as bison short ribs and black sea bass tikka masala.
“I noticed them just a couple of weeks ago,” said Burke during a phone conversation on a recent afternoon. “I was at the restaurant and thought, ‘What’s going on with the steak fries?’”
At Park Avenue Kitchen, chef William Lustberg has included steak fries, adorned with generous accompaniments, on the menu. Instead of paraphrasing Lustberg’s thoughts, Burke suggested bringing him into the conversation.
Thirty seconds later, Lustberg joined the call, sounding enthusiastic rather than defensive. “They’re just not as common anymore, and I really think they should be,” he emphasized. “I would love to be part of the movement to bring steak fries back into the spotlight.”
