I have never truly noticed footprints in the sand before. Growing up in the picturesque Welsh seaside and developing a near-obsessive fondness for coastal holidays—primarily in Spain, Greece, and Italy—I have spent a considerable amount of time at the beach. However, I had never stood in the cool shade of a palm tree, gazed along the golden stretch of sand, and seen a solitary set of footprints as the sole evidence of another’s presence. Yet here I am, experiencing my first visit to this pristine beach in Tangalle, located on the southern coast of Sri Lanka.
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The teardrop island in the Indian Ocean, situated about 33 miles south of India at its closest point, is undergoing a tourism renaissance. Visitor numbers plummeted in 2019 following devastating bombings in churches and hotels on Easter Sunday. This was subsequently followed by the pandemic and an economic crisis. Now, the steady return of holidaymakers is providing a much-needed lift to Sri Lanka’s economy. British tourists represent the island’s second-largest market, following visitors from India, with arrivals from the UK (approximately 147,000) increasing by 14 percent year on year in 2024.
This compact nation, measuring approximately 270 miles long and around 140 miles at its widest point, is a treasure trove of nature, captivating cultures, and diverse cuisine. However, one of its most significant attractions for British visitors is undoubtedly the weather. The north-east and south-west regions of the island alternate in experiencing monsoons, ensuring that there’s always a dry area to enjoy. During my visit to the south coast in February, temperatures soar to the low 30s °C, and I barely spot a cloud in the sky. It is Sri Lanka’s high season, yet standing on a deserted beach, it doesn’t feel crowded at all.
A Destination Festival
The only time I encounter any semblance of busyness is in Galle, a charming fort town located on the south-western tip of the island, which is about a two-hour drive south of the capital, Colombo. Galle, with its cobbled streets and iconic whitewashed lighthouse, has become a popular destination for tourists. Founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century—its name derived from their word for rooster, supposedly the first sight they beheld upon arrival—it was later fought for and captured by the Dutch 200 years later. Since gaining independence in 1948, Galle has transformed into a vibrant hub filled with boutiques (my personal favorites include Barefoot for homeware and Stick No Bills for colorful art prints), cafes, restaurants, and an annual literary festival, which is the reason behind my visit.
The inaugural Galle Literary Festival took place in 2007 and has since evolved into a significant event that attracts around 8,000 visitors and features 130 speakers. Esteemed figures such as Dame Maggie Smith, Michael Morpurgo, and Mary Beard have graced the stage, alongside numerous Sri Lankan creatives. I find myself engrossed in a thought-provoking discussion between journalist and author Sathnam Sanghera and Nihal Arthanayake, a BBC radio broadcaster of Sri Lankan descent, as they explore the legacy of the British Empire. I also listen to Louise Minchin reflect on her transition from the BBC Breakfast sofa to the world of murder mysteries, all while sipping tea and enjoying the poetry of Tamil writers.
“I’ve always dreamed of participating in this literary festival,” says Kate Mosse, the author of Labyrinth, after her talk. “The food, the people, and the setting make it utterly unique.” Giselle Harding, the festival’s director, agrees that the location adds a special touch. “The backdrop of a 400-year-old fort, with events scattered throughout the town in quaint eateries, charming villas, or boutique hotels, sets this event apart,” she explains.
“Everything wonderful is concentrated here,” concurs Lavanya Kumar, whose family runs Sielen Diva, a stunning seven-bedroom beachside hotel just outside Galle where I am staying. “The ocean boasts a dozen more shades of blue and green than anywhere else. The fruit is so beautifully sweet that it seems almost sugared, and the seafood is astonishingly fresh.” She adds, “Dawn and dusk are particularly breathtaking. I wake up to watch the sunrise on the beach, often with only the crabs, cranes, and stilt fishermen for company.” Following her lead one evening, I leave my hotel room—a spacious area with floor-to-ceiling views of the ocean—and embark on a sunset stroll. A massive, blood-orange sun descends toward the sea, and the beach remains empty. As the clear waves lap at my feet, I feel as light as the shimmering reflections dancing on the water.
Luxury for Less
Heading east to Tangalle, just a 90-minute drive from Galle, I continue to be amazed by the beauty of Sri Lanka. I am staying at the Anantara Peace Haven Resort, which, from the moment I am welcomed by a gentleman dressed in a traditional sarong and blowing into a conch shell, reminds me of the luxurious settings depicted in The White Lotus. The opulence extends throughout the property: its serene spa, private beach, tennis court, and two pools overlooking the Indian Ocean. Remarkably, the room rates start at around £240 with breakfast, making it more affordable than comparable luxury accommodations in other paradise destinations like Bali or the Maldives, where five-star stays can easily exceed £1,000 a night.
The resort also serves as an ideal base for exploring this stretch of coastline that remains relatively untouched by mass tourism. Tangalle itself is a quaint fishing port surrounded by tranquil beaches, low-key guesthouses, and beach shacks offering refreshments. Just two hours away lies Yala National Park, where I witness elephants grazing beside our safari vehicle, along with Bambi-like spotted deer (also known as axis deer), majestic eagles, and crocodiles. Even Anantara feels more like a nature reserve than a hotel, with monkeys, peacocks, and fishing cats—a medium-sized wild cat with a tabby-like face—roaming freely.
Sri Lankans are renowned for their hospitality. “It’s not merely about politeness,” Melanie Senanayake, one of the festival organizers, explains. “It stems from a deep-rooted culture of care. Guests are treated like family.” A perfect example occurs when I indulge in a £5 fish curry at a beach shack called Yellow Mellow, located on a neighboring bay to Anantara. Noticing a lack of wine on the menu, the waiter apologetically explains that they have limited fridge space. Before I can choose something else, he arranges to fetch some from the nearest shop. As I sip this kindly procured wine, with my feet buried in the sand and the moonlight reflecting on the waves, I find it hard to imagine a place I love more than Sri Lanka.
Getting There
Qatar Airways operates flights from Heathrow to Colombo via Doha. For more information, visit qatarairways.com.
Staying There
Anantara Peace Haven Resort offers rooms starting from £240. For booking, visit anantara.com. Sielen Diva has rooms available from £170. Check out sielendiva.com for details.
Getting Around
Tuk-tuks, Uber, and Sri Lanka’s ride-hailing app, PickMe, provide budget-friendly transportation options for getting around.
More Information
For more insights and travel tips, visit lovesrilanka.org.
