Exploring the Heart of Europe: Basel
Did you know that Europe’s geographical center might be in Poland, Czechia, or even Ukraine? It all depends on how you define the edges of the continent. The European Union’s headquarters in Brussels and the European Parliament in Strasbourg add to the geographical puzzle. However, I believe I have discovered an ideal place to experience the essence of Europe, and it’s none of these locations.
In a couple of months, Basel will host the Eurovision Song Contest, making it the perfect spot for a continental sampling. The city gracefully sits along the Rhine, one of Europe’s most significant rivers, at the convergence of Switzerland, France, and Germany. This unique borderland fosters a cosmopolitan and open-minded atmosphere, making Basel a vibrant melting pot of cultures.
Basel is truly a polyglot city, multicultural and rich in experiences, embodying everything wonderful about Europe.
Basel: A Charming Old Town
For any traveler, a charming old town is the foundation of a memorable city break, and Basel certainly delivers on that front. In Roman times, this city served as a strategic stop along the Rhine. By the early Middle Ages, it had developed around its riverside Münsterhügel (Cathedral Hill) and flourished under the influence of the Prince-Bishops, who constructed fortified walls and towers, shaping the city’s layout.
As a Renaissance stronghold, Basel boasted thinkers like Erasmus and proudly established Switzerland’s oldest university in 1460. Today, the city thrives as a banking and pharmaceutical hub, yet it retains a rich tapestry of medieval, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture.
I found myself enchanted by the bustling Marktplatz, where the blood-red City Hall stands proudly, dissected by trams. A hike up the hill led me to the stunning twin-spired Cathedral, a remarkable structure that has stood for over 800 years. Wandering through the streets, I was drawn in by charming glimpses of half-timbered houses and inviting inns.
Dining and Nightlife
My exploration led me to Restaurant Löwenzorn, a beloved establishment serving fondue since 1874. While Basel is cosmopolitan, I decided to indulge in something classically Swiss. The recipe for Löwenzorn’s delectable cheese gloop is a closely guarded secret, but it was undeniably rich and satisfying.
To burn off my meal, I ventured to Renée, a lively live-music bar known for its creative cocktails, resident cat, and underground vibe. Nestled in Kleinbasel’s red-light district, across the Rhine from the Old Town, it provided a glimpse into Basel’s more edgy side. I perched on a cracked leather stool, chatting with the barman as he experimented with his new frying machine to prepare frites.
Adventures on the Rhine
The Rhine is a classic European river cruise destination, but I chose a more unconventional method to explore its waters. For just two Swiss francs (£1.75), I boarded a ferry from the upscale St Albans district to the opposite bank near the Museum Tinguely. These non-motorized cable ferries have been traversing this stretch of the river since the mid-19th century, propelled solely by the current. Leaning back, I enjoyed the picturesque skyline as the ferryman guided us smoothly along the flow.
Next on my itinerary was art. Basel boasts one of the highest concentrations of museums in Europe and has hosted the renowned Art Basel fair since 1970. Its Kunstmuseum is home to the oldest public art collection in the world. However, I was drawn to Fondation Beyeler, a gallery crafted by Italian architect Renzo Piano, showcasing works by French artist Henri Matisse. The exhibition and the building itself were equally stunning, harmoniously blending with the surrounding greenery.
After immersing myself in Matisse’s paper cut-outs and his landscapes inspired by Canada and Scandinavia, I decided to stroll through the countryside, crossing the River Wiese into Germany.
Art and Nature Intertwined
I followed the Rehberger-Weg, a 5km trail connecting Beyeler to the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein, adorned with large artistic installations like oversized binoculars and whimsical birdhouses. This picturesque region, known as Markgräflerland, is often referred to as the “Tuscany of Germany” due to its mild climate, rolling hills, and suitability for viticulture. I found myself walking among neat vineyards of pinot noir, all while keeping the city skyline in view.
Soon, I felt as if I had been transported to northern Spain. The Vitra Campus, the headquarters of the furniture company, features architecturally daring buildings designed by luminaries like Zaha Hadid and Frank Gehry, reminiscent of Bilbao’s Guggenheim. I particularly enjoyed the red-brick Schaudepot, where an exhibition on Science Fiction Design examined the influences of iconic films like Star Trek and Blade Runner on furniture design. It was a delightful experience, proving that even a room full of chairs could be captivating.
Border Hopping and Culinary Delights
Returning to Switzerland was a breeze, and it was almost as easy to cross borders again the next day, this time on an e-bike. With Reiner from Basel Bike Tours as my guide, we set off from St Alban towards the medieval heart of the city, pausing to appreciate Basel’s unique charm. “Basel is so versatile, so multicultural, and far more relaxed than the rest of Switzerland,” he remarked.
We cycled along the river and crossed into France without even noticing until Reiner pointed out the small sign. A brief detour into Germany took us across a bridge, and before long, we were back in Switzerland. The international tri-point is marked by the striking Dreiländereck monument, situated at Basel’s port amidst freight wagons and vibrant graffiti. This area exudes a palpable bohemian spirit, especially in Holzpark, with its wooden shacks, pop-up bars, and artistic flair—a perfect example of an industrial wasteland being reclaimed by creatives.
I ran out of time to visit Augusta Raurica, Switzerland’s finest Roman ruins, a short train ride away. Instead, I opted for a culinary journey at the Markthalle. This 1920s market hall was revitalized a decade ago and now showcases an array of stalls offering diverse delights—from gelato and Turkish pide to Ukrainian borscht and Venezuelan arepas, and even Ethiopian injera. Here, you can savor flavors from not just Europe but the entire world.
The Cultural Finale
On my last evening, I attended a performance of Rossini’s Barber of Seville at Theatre Basel, which featured an imaginative puppet production (a steal at £26). A review had described it as “brilliant, imaginative, witty, but at moments weird”—a fitting description that could just as easily apply to Eurovision, and one that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Basel.
Getting there
The writer traveled with flight-free specialists Byway. A sample eight-day trip, combining Basel, Bern, and Zurich, costs from £1,133 per person.
Staying there
Hotel Gaia offers doubles starting from £165 on a bed and breakfast basis.
Visiting there
Trips with Basel Bike Tours are priced from Sfr136 per person.
More information
For more details, visit basel.com/en.
