Understanding Hair Washing: Common Mistakes and Best Practices
Washing your hair may seem like a straightforward task: just apply shampoo, rinse, and condition. However, it can be more complex than it appears, and improper techniques can lead to damage, dryness, and unmanageable frizz. To clarify how to wash your hair correctly, we consulted with experts in the field.
1. Not Brushing Before Washing
One of the simplest yet most overlooked steps is gently brushing your hair before washing. This helps to remove tangles and prepares the hair for cleansing, thereby preventing breakage and damage, explains Katherine de Rozario, a hairstylist and trichologist from Josh Wood Colour.
2. Using Hard Water
The quality of water used for washing your hair can significantly affect its health. Wes Sharpton, a hairdresser at Hairstory, points out that hard water, which is high in minerals like calcium and magnesium, can accumulate on the hair, leaving it feeling dry, dull, and brittle. If you live in an area with hard water, consider installing a water filter.
Another important factor is the temperature of the water. Hot water can strip your hair of its natural oils, leading to increased dryness. De Rozario suggests using lukewarm water, which helps maintain those oils while still effectively cleansing the hair. For the final rinse, opt for cool water to seal the hair cuticle, which enhances shine and reduces frizz.
3. Towelling Dry Incorrectly
Wet hair is particularly vulnerable to breakage and should be treated with care. Rubbing your hair vigorously with a towel can create friction, resulting in frizz and breakage. Instead, Sharpton recommends gently blotting your hair with a towel, or even better, using a microfiber towel or a cotton T-shirt. These materials are gentler and effectively absorb moisture without causing excessive friction.
If you do use a towel, start by gently squeezing your hair to remove excess water. Also, ensure that the towel is clean; De Rozario emphasizes that using a dirty towel can transfer oils and bacteria back onto your freshly washed hair.
4. Brushing Wet Hair
Wet hair requires special attention and should be handled delicately. Sharpton advises using a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush instead of a regular brush to gently work through any knots. Anabel Kingsley, a consultant trichologist at Philip Kingsley, suggests starting from the ends and working your way up to minimize potential damage.
Be cautious about the products you apply to wet hair as well, warns De Rozario. Applying styling products while your hair is dripping wet can weigh it down and interfere with the styling process. Allow your hair to dry a bit before applying any products.
5. Choosing the Wrong Shampoo
According to Kingsley, having a “shampoo wardrobe” can be beneficial to address different hair needs at various times. Some experts even recommend eliminating traditional shampoos entirely. Sharpton explains that shampoos often contain detergents that strip away beneficial oils, leading to dryness. He advises using a detergent-free cleansing cream, which acts like a gentle cleanser for your hair and scalp.
For individuals with curly hair, De Rozario recommends skipping shampoo altogether to minimize frizz and maintain curl definition. Instead, consider using sulfate-free cleansers to keep curls healthy and hydrated.
6. Conditioning the Entire Head
Conditioner is essential for healthy hair, but applying it directly to the scalp can result in greasiness and clogged pores, according to De Rozario. She recommends applying conditioner primarily to the ends of your hair, allowing it to sit for several minutes to hydrate effectively. Sharpton also suggests using a leave-in conditioner for added protection against heat damage.
7. Over-Washing Your Hair
De Rozario advises that less is often more when it comes to hair washing. Regularly washing your hair every day can deplete your scalp’s natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation. Jonathon Andrew, a celebrity hairdresser and Fudge Professional Global Hair ambassador, echoes this sentiment, explaining that daily shampooing can strip away essential oils.
He recommends washing your hair twice a week and using the double shampoo method: the first wash removes heavy product buildup, grease, or dry skin, while the second wash serves as a deep cleanser. For those struggling to wash less frequently, Andrew suggests starting slowly by implementing a second non-wash day when you’re not leaving the house. Styling your hair in an updo can help conceal the look, and dry shampoo can be a useful alternative.
8. Applying Shampoo Directly to Hair
According to De Rozario, it’s best to lather the shampoo in your hands before applying it to your hair. Focus on the scalp and gently massage it in, avoiding the ends. This technique not only helps to remove buildup but also stimulates circulation. If your scalp is oily, she recommends applying shampoo to dry hair before wetting it. This method allows the shampoo to effectively break down excess oil and buildup without immediate dilution, leading to a cleaner scalp and requiring less product overall.
Kingsley adds, “Avoid piling your hair on top of your head when you shampoo, as this can tangle your hair. Let the suds run down the lengths of your hair; this is sufficient to remove dirt. Use only a small amount of shampoo, about the size of a 50p coin, and massage gently. Rinse thoroughly, and then rinse again for best results.”
