The Evolution of Army Food: A Culinary Journey
For as long as there have been soldiers, the quality and appeal of Army food have been a source of frustration and bewilderment. An enduring marching song humorously recounts the tale of a biscuit that “rolled off the table and killed a friend of mine,” reflecting the long-standing grievances regarding military meals. During World War II, troops famously dubbed a particularly disliked beef dish as S.O.S., an acronym that still eludes a polite translation.
Recently, on a Wednesday lunchtime at Fort Jackson in South Carolina, the mess hall served tacos filled with a nondescript meat that glistened unappetizingly with grease. The brussels sprouts looked lifeless, having lost all trace of vibrant green. Moreover, the mess hall itself appeared bland and stuck in a bygone era.
However, just a few steps away, Victory Fresh, a modern and sleek fast-casual cafeteria sharing the same kitchen as the mess hall, was a world apart. Here, skilled cooks were pulling freshly made individual-size pizzas from a state-of-the-art $45,000 Marra Forni oven. The brisket, having been expertly cured and charred on-site, was served to order, while dessert options included narrow wedges of cheesecake, artfully marbled with rich sweet cream cheese and dark chocolate.
Celebrity chef Robert Irvine, who opened Victory Fresh last year, was enjoying his lunch when a towering figure in fatigues approached him. The soldier, identifying himself as Sgt. Major Joshua R. Bitle, expressed a sentiment that resonated with many: after 28 years in the military, he had never experienced such high-quality meals as he had at Victory Fresh.
Yet, a note of frustration crept into the sergeant’s voice as he posed a pressing question: why wasn’t there a Victory Fresh on every military base? “Nobody has given me an explanation for why we can’t do it,” he lamented, highlighting the ongoing disparity between the dining experiences at different military installations.
Victory Fresh was launched at Fort Jackson as part of a broader initiative aimed at revolutionizing Army dining. The menu prominently features a variety of healthy options, including salad bowls, wraps, and other nutritious items, catering to the evolving tastes and dietary needs of today’s soldiers.
