After indulging in two hours of rejuvenating pampering at Targante Imourane hammam (£36), I step outside into the warm February sunshine and make my way to the beach. A refreshing dip in the Atlantic ocean revitalizes me, and I follow it up with a delicious £1.20 shakshuka (poached eggs in a spicy tomato sauce) on the seafront terrace of Le Mirage restaurant. From my spot, I watch fishermen skillfully casting their lines and surfers riding the waves at Devil’s Rock beach. Behind me, camels leisurely stroll along the expansive, golden sands. This quaint village is Tamraght, Morocco, an Amazigh fishing enclave located just three miles south of the more popular resort town of Taghazout. It boasts some of the signature elements found in other Moroccan tourist destinations, yet without the overwhelming crowds.
Though I’m neither a seasoned surfer nor particularly laid-back, I chose to stay at ChillSurfer hostel based on its rave reviews. The hostel is operated by surf instructor and former BMX gold medalist, Jawad Toumi, who spent his childhood in the stunning Atlas Mountains. My private room is adorned with beautiful handicrafts, and each morning begins with an extravagant communal breakfast banquet on one of the two rooftop terraces.
Guests gather around a covered table to enjoy shakshuka served in a giant tagine, fluffy mushroom omelettes, fresh bread, olives, honey, and amlou, the local peanut butter delicacy. I find myself mingling with fellow travelers ranging from their twenties to mid-fifties, hailing from countries like Germany, Denmark, Argentina, and the UK. As we pass around the amlou and share our daily plans, new friendships blossom. On two occasions, I venture out for dinner with my newfound companions.
ChillSurfer’s resident yoga instructor, Ruth Susman, originally from Cornwall, mentions that until recently, most guests were surfers from Germany and the Netherlands, drawn to the waves that reach heights between four and 15 feet. However, she has noticed an uptick in bookings from the UK lately, particularly families visiting during school holidays. Ruth attributes this shift to the growing awareness of Tamraght as a calmer alternative to the bustling Taghazout, just a stone’s throw away. Families will appreciate the beautiful beaches as well as engaging activities such as sandboarding and camel rides.
Beyond the beach, there are numerous family-friendly activities available, including sandboarding, camel rides, and a visit to Souk El Had in Agadir, one of North Africa’s largest souks. I take a taxi (£5) to the hilltop Taghazout Skatepark, where hundreds gather each evening to witness skateboarders perform impressive tricks against the backdrop of vibrant sunsets. The atmosphere is electric with hip-hop music, cheering crowds, and vendors like Mr. Vintish selling their goods, creating a festival-like vibe.
Afterward, I navigate the steep goat path down to central Taghazout, where I’m greeted by a cacophony of music, neon lights, honking horns, and the sounds of buzzing mopeds. The air is filled with the enticing aromas from street food stalls. Dining out is incredibly affordable in both Tamraght and Taghazout. At Casa Hukana in Tamraght, beautifully presented tapas dishes are just £2.80 each, while at Anwal in Taghazout, a colorful couscous dish costs around £4, with meat options starting at £5.50. I relish the vibrant atmosphere in Taghazout but feel grateful to return to the peacefulness of Tamraght, where I join my new friends and ChillSurfer’s resident kittens around the rooftop firepit under a starlit sky.
This traditional village features five mosques, and alcohol is generally not available—except at the somewhat ironically named White Beach Resort Taghazout, a five-star all-inclusive hotel on the promenade. However, development is booming, and the vast, vacant beachfront land seems poised for more all-inclusive resorts. While some travelers appreciate Tamraght’s alcohol-free environment as part of its charm, others value the tranquil retreat it offers after a day of surfing.
Many people asked if I would feel safe traveling to Tamraght alone, but it feels worlds apart from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech. Here, children play football in the streets, and friendly locals go about their daily routines alongside retirees living in vans, young surfers, digital nomads, and solo adventurers like me. While many tourists in the region flock to Paradise Valley, a picturesque oasis in the High Atlas Mountains, its popularity has led to environmental degradation. “Twelve or 13 years ago, it was paradise,” Jawad tells me, “but now, there’s lots of litter.”
For £32, Jawad takes me and three of my fellow guests deeper into the mountains for an unforgettable day trip to the untouched “Secret Valley.” He leads us through tall date palms, blooming almond trees, and past waterfalls to a rustic shack perched on pale rocks, overlooking an aquamarine pool. As he and our driver, Mohamed, prepare a delicious tagine over the fire, we take a refreshing dip in the cold water. Afterward, basking on the warm rocks with mint tea in hand, we feel blissfully content. The day concludes perfectly with Ruth’s restorative sunset yoga class and a communal dinner at ChillSurfer.
While I still don’t surf, I leave feeling completely at ease. The bustling Tuesday market feels more frequented by locals than tourists. I take the opportunity to stock up on vibrant spices and charming ceramics to bring back to chilly Manchester. Though I’ve only spent four days here, as I stroll down the hill past dogs lounging in the shade of picturesque doorways and vibrant bougainvillea, I feel an unexpected sense of belonging, as if I have been here for months. There’s so much more I wish I could explore, like horseback riding with Amazir Cheval and jewelry-making workshops at Brookolie, but my love for this place assures me I will return. Perhaps next time, I will even try my hand at surfing.
Getting There
EasyJet offers direct flights to Agadir from Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Gatwick, Luton, and Manchester. Ryanair also has direct flights to Agadir from Manchester, Bournemouth, Edinburgh, Birmingham, and Stansted.
Staying There
Private doubles (with shared bathroom) at ChillSurfer start from £32 B&B, while beds in dorms are available from £17 B&B. You can book directly or via HostelWorld. A home-cooked dinner, depending on demand, is approximately £7.50. Surf lessons are available for £32, which includes instruction, two hours in the water, wetsuit and board hire, plus return transport to nearby beaches, contingent on conditions. Yoga classes are priced at £11.50. All prices are based on the MAD to GBP conversion rates at the time of writing. The Moroccan Dirham is a closed currency, and nearly all establishments in Tamraght accept cash only. There are currency exchange services and ATMs in the arrivals hall at Agadir and within Tamraght.
More Information
For additional details, visit visitmorocco.com/en.
