“Bellissima!” a passenger in a passing car shouts, leaning out of the window and waving their arms excitedly. Other vehicles honk their horns, exchanging playful whistles with the steam locomotive, while a man riding a bicycle almost collides with a pedestrian, distracted as he films the train’s journey. As the train rounds a gentle curve, the picturesque Lake Annone emerges, a shimmering 5.7 sq km body of water nestled in Italy’s Lombardy region. The fading light of the day dances across the surface of the lake, framed by the rolling hills of the Sasso Malascarpa Nature Reserve in the background.
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Onboard the train, I find myself surrounded by cheerful Italians who enthusiastically wave back to the people outside through the spacious, open windows of the corridor. I have purchased a ticket for just €9.10 (£7.60) for this scenic three-and-a-half-hour journey aboard the Besanino Express, which travels from Lecco, located on the banks of Lake Como, to the bustling city of Milan. In comparison, a similar experience in Britain would typically cost around £100. The railway line meanders alongside the main road for several miles, passing through charming villages. This train is one of the many heritage services that operate throughout mainland Italy and Sicily year-round, managed by Fondazione FS, a subsidiary of the state-owned Trenitalia.
Standing in the corridor of the leading carriage, I lean out the window, soaking in the sounds of the 102-year-old Class 740 steam locomotive as it pulls our train. My carriage hails from the 1960s, while others date back over 90 years. The seats are not only comfortable but also spacious and well-cushioned, making it no surprise that the train is nearly full given the affordable ticket prices. Although there’s no dedicated buffet carriage, I still manage to find refreshment. As I settle into my compartment shared with five friendly Italians, a woman produces a large jug along with a stack of disposable cups. I catch a few words in Italian, including “Inglese,” and laughter ensues, suggesting a light-hearted joke at my expense. However, a couple in their twenties, Michele and Aria, kindly translate for me. “She’s asking if you’d like some tea? Though it’s not English tea,” Michele explains.
“Si, si!” I respond with enthusiasm. The warm drink is certainly not tea, but it has a delightful flavor, and I suspect it might be alcoholic. Soon, we leave the lakes behind and travel through lush parkland and wooded areas on a narrow gauge line, with occasional stops at stations to allow (often tardy) modern trains to pass in the opposite direction. These brief pauses provide ample opportunity for passengers to admire the locomotive and engage with the crew during the early evening.
During these stops, my jug-toting companion joyfully hands cups through the window to passengers on other stationary trains, eliciting delighted reactions as arms stretch out from either side to accept the unexpected gift. Fondazione FS receives substantial subsidies from local and regional governments to promote train travel; a return ticket between Milan and Lecco on this charter service costs only €4 (£3.30) more than a standard ticket for a regular train. The organization is also tasked with reopening dormant lines so that tourist trains can operate. For instance, since 2022, Fondazione FS has been working on restoring a 27km (17 mile) line between Noto and Pachino in Sicily, which has been closed since 1986 and is expected to open next year.
The train I’m traveling on is predominantly filled with families. At one point, I notice a father lifting his toddler to give them a better view. In contrast to the UK, where special trains are marketed by niche tour companies, all Fondazione FS trains are listed alongside regular services in Trenitalia’s journey planners. “It’s really easy to book and quite affordable,” Aria shares with me. She planned this trip knowing her partner has a passion for trains. This is their first rail tour, but they’ve already decided to become repeat customers. “It’s such an enjoyable experience,” Aria adds. “I love how the people on the streets are amazed by the train; it’s wonderful to witness.”
Although I travel only from Lecco, which is blessed with beautiful sunshine during my visit, most passengers embark from Milan, spending the afternoon exploring the town. Even before boarding the train, I sensed this would be a memorable journey. Upon spotting a group of staff clad in dark blue uniforms and Breton caps, I inquired about the train’s departure time. After some back-and-forth—my broken Italian against their limited English, aided by Google Translate—it became clear that I am an enthusiast and this was my first steam trip in Italy.
What happened next took me by surprise. “You are special because you’ve come all the way from the UK,” Marco Zenoni, one of the team members responsible for the train, told me. He introduced me to Angelo Rossi, the president of the Ferrovie Turistiche Italiane, the organization that provides stewards onboard the trains. Once the locomotive arrived at the platform, Marco gestured for me to follow him. Before long, I found myself standing on the railway line, having my photo taken. After watching the train depart for the depot at Milano Centrale, I couldn’t wipe the grin off my face. Having traveled tens of thousands of miles behind steam engines around the world, this trip truly stands out.
Getting there
The writer flew to Milan with easyJet, which offers flights to various airports across Italy (easyjet.com). For information on steam, diesel, and electric-hauled excursion trains, visit fondazionefs.it/en/itineraries. One-way adult tickets for the Besanino Express are €9.10 (£7.50); children travel free.
Staying there
- NH Lecco Pontevecchio has doubles starting from £85, nh-hotels.com.
- ibis Styles Milano Centro offers doubles from £84, all.accor.com.
