Exploring Paris: A Family Adventure
After completing a circuit around the recently reopened Notre Dame, my six-year-old son appeared rather disheartened. Was this what they termed the Paris Syndrome, a notion I had previously dismissed? Had he really found the Matisse screen prints unremarkable? Did the kaleidoscopic sunlight filtering through the stained-glass rose window fail to impress him? What about the chandeliers? The flickering candles? All he could muster was, “I need a wee,” prompting us to seek refuge in the nearest brasserie.
Assuming we were about to be hit with the typical tourist trap prices, we were pleasantly surprised by the warm service, hot chocolate that hit the spot, and a bill that didn’t break the bank. Eventually, he admitted, “The church was too busy.” While this sentiment may not reflect the extreme culture shock that some tourists experience in Paris, I could certainly relate to the feeling of being overwhelmed. We had joined a military-style procession of over 3,000 visitors, with no alternative but to take part in the slow, clockwise circuit of the nave. It allowed us to appreciate the beauty of the restored Lutetian limestone, the magnificent chandeliers, the vibrant stained glass, the intricate painted ceilings, and various artworks, but there was no room for quiet reflection or breathing space.
Notre Dame welcomes tens of thousands of visitors daily, and despite the hustle and bustle, one attraction was successfully checked off our itinerary, leaving my husband somewhat impressed. Our family has visited Paris several times before, including once with our two children, who have since lost their memories of the trip. However, I remain the only true devotee in our family. We started our day with a delightful visit to the enchanting Shakespeare and Company bookstore across the street, where we picked up books from the children’s section and enjoyed a superb cup of coffee at the café. Afterward, we recognized our children’s limits—ages six and eight—prompting us to seek art alternatives outside the Louvre.
Fortunately, Paris is quite walkable, even with little legs in tow. Our accommodation in the charming Marais district allowed us to stroll to Notre Dame in about half an hour, passing the Pop Art-inspired exterior escalators of the Pompidou Centre and numerous street art distractions, including at least half a dozen Invader ceramic tile mosaics. According to my map, we could reach the Musée en Herbe—just behind the Louvre—in approximately 15 minutes. We sped up our journey by letting the kids choose which bridge to cross over the Seine.
Promoting itself as an “intergenerational space for cultural discovery and artistic practice,” the little museum offers art exhibitions for all ages, from 3 to 103. The focus is on engagement and playful immersion, and with less than 2% of the annual visitors of the neighboring Louvre, crowds were unlikely to be a hindrance. It was also considerably more affordable to visit.
- Recent research by Eurostar and Airbnb indicates that Paris is not just a haven for couples or friends; more families are drawn to city breaks here, with half of them seeking out lesser-known attractions.
This visit turned out to be a significant hit. An exhibition featuring contemporary artist Wenna, inspired by Chinese mythology, showcased four rooms filled with neon colors, installations, paintings, and interactive objects, including a whimsical cat temple and a sensory sea experience. After completing a cultural treasure hunt with magic pens, the children were delighted to receive a cat-themed pen as a keepsake.
Nearby, the polished limestone and colonnades of the Cour d’Honneur at the Palais Royal proved irresistible for an impromptu game of football on our way to lunch. A marshal was observing visitors climbing the iconic black-and-white striped marble columns around the square, cautioning them to be careful, and I braced myself for an imminent end to our game. To our surprise, he welcomed the children’s play.
The Palais Royal provided a perfect backdrop for our spontaneous football match, and shortly after, we made our way north to the Bourse stock exchange for a lunch reservation at Brasserie Vaudeville. Established in 1918, its Art Deco interiors shimmer with polished brass and marble. Although there was no children’s menu, the attentive staff offered smaller portions, allowing the kids to enjoy full-size moules-frites and ice cream without any complaints.
After a hearty meal, the children were feeling a bit worn out, prompting the need for some downtime. One of the perks of a self-catering city break is the flexibility it offers, along with more space compared to an equally priced hotel room. Our charming split-level Airbnb apartment featured two bedrooms, a secluded terrace, and a sitting room equipped with Netflix, providing us with the perfect setting to recharge for an hour before heading back out on the Metro to the Eiffel Tower.
Unfortunately, we had missed the opportunity to book the lift to the top, so we opted for a thigh-burning sunset stroll to the second floor instead. Our son counted each of the 674 stairs, while our eight-year-old daughter was eventually enchanted by the evening illumination that coincided perfectly with our breathless arrival, as the tower sparkled with lights. Back at the apartment, the children hurried to bed, while my husband and I enjoyed a glass of wine before joining them upstairs.
On our second day, I had planned less, preferring a leisurely breakfast as we packed our bags. Our host had kindly allowed us to leave our luggage at the apartment until late afternoon, enabling us to continue sightseeing without the burden of our bags. We ventured west to the Bois de Boulogne, a vast park on the city’s outskirts that encompasses woodlands, ornamental gardens, lakes, and the striking deconstructivist Fondation Louis Vuitton designed by Frank Gehry. Just looking at the enormous glass-and-steel art gallery towering above the tree canopy was off-putting, so we decided to explore the Jardin d’Acclimatation, a 94-year-old amusement park featuring a Ferris wheel, vintage rides, and free-roaming peacocks.
At the heart of the Bois de Boulogne lies a picturesque lake where the recently reopened Chalet des Îles is situated on an island. A ferry service transports visitors back and forth to the restaurant, where we enjoyed a delightful brunch overlooking the water, allowing our children to indulge in an array of seafood without a single thought for nuggets or fries.
After walking off our lunch in the woods, we returned to collect our bags from the apartment and checked in for our Eurostar journey home. Without the hassle of traveling to an airport, we maximized our final day in the city. Ninety minutes after leaving the apartment, our train departed from Gare du Nord, whisking us back home. On our outbound journey, the children had been bubbling with excitement, jumping in and out of their seats while exploring the carriages. This time, they were content to sit and play Uno, reminiscing about the highlights of our tiring yet joyful weekend. “When are we going back to Paris?” my son asked, and that question told me all I needed to know.
How to Get There
Eurostar offers train travel between London St Pancras and Paris Gare du Nord from £35 one way. Children under four travel free.
Where to Stay
The Marais apartment accommodates four and costs from £250 per night through Airbnb. Airbnb and Eurostar are currently offering a chance to win free train tickets and family-friendly Guest Favourite stays valued up to £1,000 (entries close 3 March 2025).
Where to Visit
- Notre Dame is free to visit; you can either queue on the day or pre-book a time slot.
- Shakespeare and Company opens daily.
- Le Musée en Herbe, admission €8.
- Brasserie Vaudeville, two-course set menus from €29.
- Eiffel Tower, ascent to the 2nd stage by stairs admission €14.50 per adult, €3.70 per child.
- Jardin d’Acclimatation, family tickets (four people) with unlimited rides from €134; entry without rides €7 per person.
- Le Chalet des Iles, Sunday brunch buffet is €75 per adult and €29 per child.
More Information
For more details, visit the Paris tourist office.
