Discovering Merthyr Mawr: A Hidden Gem in South Wales
Situated just a short 10-minute drive from Bridgend in South Wales, the enchanting village of Merthyr Mawr beckons visitors with its lush countryside and quaint charm. With a population of fewer than 300 residents, this serene village is distinguished by its picturesque thatched-roof cottages, which evoke a sense of stepping back in time. The aesthetic of Merthyr Mawr is reminiscent of Cotswolds towns like Bibury, yet it remains blissfully free from the throngs of tourists and coach tours.
Upon entering the village via a narrow bridge—only wide enough for a single vehicle—you’ll be greeted by weathered stone walls that lead to a beautifully landscaped park featuring the striking Merthyr Mawr House at its center. This early 19th-century classical mansion, originally owned by Sir John Nicholl, serves as the anchor of the Merthyr Mawr Estate, which encompasses the village’s charming homes. Many of these cottages are occupied by families who have resided here for generations, fostering a profound sense of community.
Just ten minutes to the south lies Ogmore by the Sea, a popular stretch of golden sand along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, renowned for its fascinating fossils and inviting rock pools. To the north, the Merthyr Mawr Warren National Nature Reserve is home to the largest sand dune in the UK, affectionately known as the Big Dipper. For further information, visit visitbridgend.co.uk.
Getting There and Getting Around
The most convenient way to reach Merthyr Mawr is by car. You’ll find parking available next to the suspension footbridge in the village center, as well as at the Nature Reserve’s car park located at Candleston. If you’re coming from Bridgend, which is served by Transport for Wales and Great Western trains from London Paddington, Cardiff, Swansea, and Carmarthen, the 303 bus makes stops in nearby Ewenny.
Where to Stay
While the village itself does not offer tourist accommodations, several charming country manor houses are located nearby. A fifteen-minute drive brings you to the Grade II listed Coed-y-Mwstwr, where Victorian elegance meets period features, and award-winning chefs serve delightful cuisine. Cozy double rooms start at £115, including one wheelchair-accessible option.
Also in the vicinity is Court Colman Manor, notable for its appearance in the recent finale of Gavin and Stacey. This manor boasts six acres of private gardens, luxurious rooms, and an innovative Nepalese kitchen, with doubles starting at £130 for bed and breakfast. For a homely experience, consider St Bridget’s Farmhouse, a luxury B&B with three inviting bedrooms located in nearby St Brides Major, with rates beginning at £140 B&B.
Strolling Through Nature
As you meander along the stone-walled roads of Merthyr Mawr, you’ll be enveloped by the sights and sounds of nature. Ancient trees arch gracefully over verdant fields, grazing horses dot the landscape, and playful lambs nuzzle against their mothers. Along the way, you’ll encounter the village’s charming pastel-colored thatched cottages, as well as a quaint tennis club, creating a peaceful atmosphere where nature thrives.
Cozy Cafés to Enjoy
For a delightful meal, head to Cobbles Kitchen in nearby Ogmore village. Housed in a rustic stone barn, this café offers an extensive brunch menu along with hearty toasties and Sunday roast platters—be sure to book a table in advance to secure your spot. If you’re in the mood for relaxation, visit The Outdoor Sauna, a traditional Lithuanian spa experience.
Rainy Day Retreats
At the heart of Merthyr Mawr stands the fairy tale-like St Teilo’s Church, surrounded by a graveyard that beautifully showcases seasonal blooms such as snowdrops, daffodils, and bluebells. This 19th-century church was built on the site of a much older medieval church. Inside, visitors can admire stunning stained-glass windows, while under a shelter, an exhibit of inscribed medieval stones from the 5th century awaits exploration. The church also hosts a monthly craft and chat social.
In the woodlands surrounding the Candleston car park, you’ll find the ruins of Candleston Castle, a fortified manor house dating back to the 14th century. It was named after the Norman family De Cantaloupe and was ultimately abandoned due to encroaching sand dunes. Further into the woods lies The Outdoor Sauna, where you can enjoy private and communal sessions for just £19 an hour.
Across the Ewenny River, Ogmore Castle can be accessed by crossing ancient stepping stones, said to have been laid for a princess seeking to meet her lover on the opposite bank. This historic fortress, built in the 12th century, was one of three fortifications designed to protect Glamorgan from invasions from the Welsh-held west.
Warm Up with a Drink
Close to Ogmore Castle, the Watermill is a charming riverside pub that welcomes dogs and features a lovely beer garden. Inside, a cozy fireplace awaits for those cooler days, providing the perfect spot to relax with a drink.
Dining Out
For hearty pub fare, venture down the road to the historic Pelican Inn. Known for its traditional pub classics, this lively venue draws in locals, especially on Sundays, so be sure to make a reservation in advance.
Spring Walks to Remember
Venture into South Wales’s very own slice of the Sahara, which famously doubled as the Arabian desert in the classic 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia. The Merthyr Mawr Warren National Nature Reserve features a breathtaking expanse of sand dunes that spans over 800 acres, with some dunes reaching impressive heights of 200 feet. The peak, known as Europe’s second-largest sand dune, is an ideal spot for dune-sledging.
These dunes were once part of a continuous stretch of sand that extended from the River Ogmore to the Gower Peninsula. As a Site of Specific Scientific Interest, the area is a haven for various plants, fungi, and insects, including the notable carabid beetle. The Wales Coast Path runs alongside Merthyr Mawr, offering multiple walking routes from Candleston car park that lead to the dunes and onward to the stunning coastline, connecting you to nearby towns such as Porthcawl, just six miles away.
Three Fascinating Facts About Merthyr Mawr
- Meaning of the Name: Merthyr Mawr translates to “Great Martyr,” believed to reference the potential burial site of the Welsh saint Myfor.
- Archaeological Significance: The sand dunes are a hotspot for prehistoric discoveries, including Bronze Age burial mounds and Stone Age flints.
- Annual Festival: Each August, the village hosts the Between The Trees festival, a celebration of nature and science, featuring indie-folk, country, Americana, and acoustic music.
