Exploring De Hallen: A Historical Gem in Amsterdam
As I step into the vibrant food court of the grand De Hallen, a striking red brick structure built in 1902, my guide, Marten Koerse, gestures towards the tracks etched into the floor. “These tracks tell the story of the building’s rich history,” he explains. Once a bustling tram depot and later a workshop, De Hallen was abandoned in 1996. “Local residents fought against plans to demolish it and ultimately triumphed,” he adds with pride.
In 2010, the Trom Tram Depot Development Corporation was established, bringing together community members and architect Andre Van Stigt to breathe new life into the space. By 2014, De Hallen had transformed into a vibrant hub in the heart of the Oud-West neighborhood, located in Amsterdam’s West district.
Experience the Local Culture
Today, De Hallen boasts a hotel, a cinema, a lively food hall known as Foodhallen, and several unique shops. It stands as a testament to the preservation of heritage in this leafy neighborhood, which is conveniently located just a 20-minute tram ride or a 35-minute stroll from Amsterdam Central Station. However, despite its allure, Koerse mentions that many of the building’s original advocates rarely visit. “Few Dutch locals come here anymore,” he remarks as we navigate through a bustling lunchtime crowd eagerly queuing for gourmet eats and craft beers. “The prices have become prohibitively high.”
Since around 2018, the food hall has gained popularity among tourists, thanks in part to social media exposure, which has also driven up prices, according to Koerse.
Shop Like a Local
If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly experience, Ten Katemarkt is just a three-minute walk around the corner. This bustling outdoor market has been a staple since 1912, where vendors offer a delightful array of fresh produce, cheeses, and flowers. “While many expats flock to Foodhallen, Ten Katemarkt is where locals shop,” Koerse explains, noting that “you can easily grab two bags of vegetables for only €20.” It’s a much more economical choice compared to supermarket prices found across Amsterdam.
Oud-West, meaning “old,” is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, developed in response to Amsterdam’s population boom in the late 19th century. Enclosed by green spaces like Vondelpark to the south and Rembrandtpark to the west, it is a melting pot of cultures, housing a diverse population ranging from single Americans to Turkish families. Notable streets such as Bilderdijkstraat and Kinkerstraat are lined with cozy cafés, traditional brown bars, brunch spots, and vintage boutiques, giving the area a vibe reminiscent of gentrified neighborhoods in North London, such as Stoke Newington.
A Culinary Paradise
Femke Rademakers, manager of Maison Elle Amsterdam—a charming boutique hotel located just a two-minute walk from the expansive Vondelpark—describes the appeal of Oud-West: “This area remains primarily residential, and there’s a burgeoning culinary scene. Many restaurants in central Amsterdam cater to tourists, often with inflated prices compared to those in Oud-West.”
From the hotel’s inviting breakfast area, Rademakers points out toward Vondelpark, which is dotted with hidden cafés serving delectable treats, including mouth-watering apple pie. She also shares a fascinating story about a nearby 20-room mansion named Villa Betty, which inspired a podcast detailing how Betty was unable to inherit the property following her husband’s death.
Discovering Plant-Based Delights
For visitors, Oud-West presents a delightful weekend of culinary exploration, particularly for those seeking plant-based options. The Netherlands is one of my favorite countries, yet as a vegan, I often find myself at a loss in traditional restaurants. However, Oud-West is a thriving hub for meat-free dining. At Vegetalian on Bilderdijkstraat, I savor a delectable mushroom truffle pizza paired with a heavenly pistachio-topped tiramisu. On Kinkerstraat, the Vegan Sushi Bar impresses with its crunchy, shrimp-less tempura roll. Meanwhile, Pizza Project at the corner of Wilhelminastraat often has eager diners waiting for their Neapolitan pizzas.
Another standout is Night Kitchen, a chic Mediterranean restaurant where my friend and I indulge in an exquisite dinner featuring dishes like tomato carpaccio with slow-roasted tomatoes, pita croutons, and fresh basil. We opt for the €58 “Dinner with Friends” option, which is well worth it.
Uncovering Neighborhood Treasures
Beyond dining, the area is sprinkled with hidden gems. Vintage shops such as ReShare Store, Tutti Frutti, and First Vintage Fashion offer a treasure trove of unique finds. For film enthusiasts, De Hallen’s cinema is a must-visit, but also nearby is the independent Lab 111, which screens indie films and hosts engaging talks. Another excellent option is the recently opened Documentary Pavilion (Het Documentaire Paviljoen), which showcases captivating documentaries several days a week. Music aficionados should not miss the under-the-radar concert hall, Orgelpark.
Choosing Your Base
For those wishing to stay close to Vondelpark, NH Amsterdam Leidseplein offers a fantastic home base. For a touch of luxury, consider The Conservatorium, which features an atrium lounge, a spa complete with a pool, sauna, and hammam, and a stylish shopping gallery. The doorman shares that his favorite pastime in the area is cycling through Vondelpark, and I can’t help but agree. Despite the crowd of commuters and parents with strollers, the park remains a beloved oasis for everyone.
Getting There
Traveling to Amsterdam is a breeze with Eurostar offering direct services between London and Amsterdam.
Where to Stay
- Tire Station by Conscious Hotels – Rooms from €95 per night
- Maison Elle – Rooms from €180 per night
- NH Amsterdam Leidseplein – Rooms from €169 per night
- Conservatorium – Rooms from €380 per night
Dining Recommendations
- Vegetalian
- Vegan Sushi Bar
- Pizza Project
- Night Kitchen
- Café Binnenvisser
- Foodhallen
More Information
For additional details, visit iamsterdam.com.
