Exploring Llandovery: A Gateway to Adventure
Situated on the north-western fringes of the stunning Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park in Carmarthenshire, Llandovery is a charming former sheep drovers’ town that serves as an excellent base for exploring the park and the wild beauty of the Cambrian Mountains.
With a modest population of around 2,700 residents, Llandovery is steeped in rich heritage. Nestled below rolling hills, the town boasts inviting pubs and delightful coffee shops, perfect for taking refuge if the weather turns inclement.
Just to the east of the picturesque River Tywi, Llandovery is a town with a storied past, featuring remnants of Roman forts, Norman castles, and the historic stops of Welsh Black cattle drovers. For more information on local attractions, visit discovercarmarthenshire.com.
Getting There and Getting Around
Llandovery is conveniently served by a railway station on the Heart of Wales train line, which connects south to Swansea and north to England, with Shrewsbury being its northern terminus. The station is just a five-minute stroll from the heart of the town.
For those preferring to travel by bus, Llandovery is accessible via several routes. The 280 and 281 buses meander through scenic villages, including Llansadwrn, home to a charming churchyard and a war memorial honoring soldiers lost in the Boer and World Wars. The bus journey to Carmarthen takes approximately an hour and 20 minutes.
Drop Your Bags
The New White Lion, a Grade II listed Georgian building located in the town center, combines the homely feel of a family-run B&B with the sophistication of a higher-end hotel. Room rates start at £145 per night, which includes a delightful à la carte breakfast. Each bedroom is named after characters from Welsh myth and legend, adding to the unique charm of the establishment. The cozy living room features an open fire, complimentary tea and coffee, and an honesty bar, where you might be greeted by the owners’ friendly spaniel, Poppy.
The Kings Head, situated on Market Square, is a traditional pub offering nine comfortable bedrooms, including accessible options and family rooms. Rates start from £70 per night, including breakfast.
If you prefer self-catering accommodations, The Bear apartments are just a short walk away, starting at £137 per night for up to four guests. For pet owners, the Riverside Pods, located less than a five-minute drive or a 20-minute walk east of town, provide a cozy stay starting at £110 per night for a pod featuring a double bed, with some options including a sofa bed.
Browse the Shops
Adjacent to the railway station on Queensway, the Llandovery Antiques Centre is a treasure trove of furniture, jewelry, and unique knick-knacks. Here, you might find distinctive items such as a bust of Cleopatra, antique advertising signs, or a beautifully crafted Edwardian armchair.
For those who enjoy thrift shopping, venture to Black Lion Antiques and Collectables at The Craft Centre on Kings Road, or explore Replay Vintage on Stone Street. If you’re looking for something different, The Dragons Garden on the High Street is an independent bookshop offering a selection of fair-trade goods, including hats and candles.
From April to October, don’t miss the farmer’s market held on Market Square on the first Saturday morning of each month, featuring local delights such as honey from Garreg Fechan farm and gluten-free treats from Tasty Local Cakes.
Cosy Cafés
For the best coffee in town, head to Penygawse. This café not only serves excellent brews but also offers a selection of cakes and light lunches, including soup and sandwiches. Enjoy your refreshments while people-watching from the window or, if the weather permits, from the outdoor seating on the bustling High Street, where colorful buildings line the streets.
Rainy Day Refuges
If the weather takes a turn for the worse, consider visiting Llandovery Castle. Although only ruins remain of this historic 12th- and 13th-century fortress, the site offers a scenic view of the Afon Brân tributary, even amidst rain and clouds.
Alternatively, a short ten-minute drive or taxi ride will take you to the village of Myddfai, where you can explore a community hall and visitor center dedicated to the “Physicians of Myddfai,” who were legendary herbal doctors rumored to have practiced in the area during the 12th century. This center also operates as a social enterprise, featuring a gift shop and café, employing vulnerable locals and selling handmade toiletries such as hand lotion and bath bombs.
A Drink by the Fire
For a true taste of local history, visit The Kings Head, a 16th-century pub situated on Market Square, which once served as a coaching inn. Extensively renovated during the reign of Charles I, the pub’s sign features his likeness. The establishment serves a variety of local brews on tap and offers hearty pub classics, including pies, soups, and Sunday roasts. It’s a favorite among locals, especially on rugby match days.
Dinner Reservations
After a day spent exploring the hills, you’ll want to indulge in something delicious and fulfilling. The Bear provides a mouthwatering menu featuring sandwiches, noodles, and traditional Welsh cawl (stew). However, their standout offerings are the juicy burgers served alongside generous portions of crispy chips. Vegetarian and vegan diners will also find plenty of options, including Sri Lankan dahl curry and a plant-based “Bear Burger,” as well as a children’s menu and an impressive selection of local beers.
Spring Walks
Make use of the Heart of Wales railway line by hopping on a train for a single stop to Cynghordy, then enjoy the breathtaking views as you walk back to Llandovery over a scenic 7-mile (11 km) route. The vistas are nothing short of spectacular, even under cloudy skies.
For a shorter adventure, consider a 3-mile (5 km) mapped loop that begins near the castle, leading you through highlights such as the Roman fort, the River Tywi (the longest river in Wales), and a charming chain suspension bridge inspired by Thomas Telford’s design on the Menai Strait.
If you arrived by car, take a scenic drive to the Llyn Brianne dam, located just 25 minutes away. Standing at 300 feet, it is the tallest stone dam in the UK and offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The dam is part of a 25 km circular trail (see alltrails.com for more details).
The Gwenffrwd-Dinas RSPB reserve is also nearby. While it has been closed since December due to storm damage, it is certainly worth visiting once it reopens.
Three Things to Know
- Historical Significance: King Henry IV stayed at Llandovery Castle in 1401, witnessing the execution of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Fychan, a landowner who supported the Welsh rebellion, right in the marketplace.
- Geological Heritage: The work of 19th-century Scottish geologist Roderick Murchison in Llandovery led to the naming of significant rock formations after the town.
- Local Sports Fame: Rugby player Wyn Jones, a Llandovery native, began his career with Llandovery RFC before making his professional debut with the Scarlets in 2014.
