Into the Heart of British Columbia’s Wilderness
As the rustling of our camouflage coats faded into stillness, I was enveloped by an unparalleled silence—thick and meditative, almost spiritual. My adventure began with a brief flight from Vancouver, traveling approximately 300 kilometers northeast to the city of Kamloops in British Columbia. From there, I embarked on a three-hour drive further north to Williams Lake, which lies at the core of the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast region. This breathtaking area stretches from the Pacific Ocean to the Cariboo Mountains, showcasing a stunning variety of landscapes that include fjords, pristine lakes, lush temperate rainforests, and expansive plains.
Exploring the Wild
After a pre-dawn drive to Beaver Creek near Likely—often referred to as the middle of nowhere—I set off on a short hike under a biting -27°C temperature. There I crouched on my snowshoes amidst snow-laden aspen trees, eagerly searching for moose, lynx, wolves, and ermine. On this nature excursion, I was fortunate to have Eco Tours guide Ryan Simmonds accompany me during the peak of the wolf and lynx breeding season in early February.
“They’re quite focused at this time of year,” Ryan shared with us. “This can work in our favor—they won’t be as aware of our presence.” As the dawn sky illuminated the frozen landscape with shades of pink, the roads were eerily deserted, save for the occasional logging truck rumbling by. Before we set off, Ryan established some ground rules: “Keep your voices down, proceed in single file behind me, and when I stop, remain silent.” His intuitive understanding of the wilderness was evident; he had scouted the area to determine where animal activity was most likely to occur. Yet, as he reminded us, nature is inherently unpredictable. “That’s just how it is. You can follow the tracks, but sometimes you miss the action.”
The Tracks Tell a Story
As we ventured deeper into the woods, Ryan would periodically halt, listening intently and scanning the surroundings. He’d gauge the wind direction, adjusting our route to minimize our scent and avoid startling the moose. Whenever we encountered fresh tracks, he’d share insights about the animal that had passed, including how long ago it was, the species, sex, size, and age. “These are fresh,” he whispered, examining prints in the snow that, to my untrained eye, looked similar to all the others. “I’d wager it was a mother moose and her one-year-old calf. Looks like she was dragging a dead rabbit.”
Scouting Quesnel Lake
After our trek, we returned to the truck and set off to explore Quesnel Lake, reputed to be the deepest lake fjord in the world, plunging down to an impressive 600 meters. This area is home to elusive wolverines, and as we gazed at the long, narrow lake, its frozen surface sparkled under the late afternoon sun, resembling floating diamanté rose buds adorned with hoar frost.
Back in the warmth of the truck, we kept our eyes peeled, hoping for a glimpse of a moose or lynx. While we spotted cows, horses, and birds of prey, our imaginations started to play tricks on us—a stump appeared to be a lynx, and a fallen tree trunk looked like a moose. Yet, the true allure of this remarkable wilderness lay beyond the immediate sightings.
Discovering the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast
The Cariboo Chilcotin Coast region—named partly for the reindeer that roam its highlands—encompasses about 12 percent of British Columbia’s landmass, inhabited by only around 10 percent of Vancouver’s population. This area is renowned for its logging history, cowboy culture, gold rush heritage, snow sports, and exceptional fishing opportunities. Visitor numbers peak during the warm summer months of July and August but are notably lower between November and February, making it a serene escape from the bustling ski resorts of Whistler and Banff and the vibrant city life of Vancouver.
The Barkerville Experience
However, there was one place bustling with activity at the start of February: the 33rd annual Barkerville Gold Rush Trail Sled Dog Mail Run. Barkerville’s gold rush story is anchored by the tale of an English prospector named Billy Barker, who struck gold beneath the town’s high street in 1862. Now a heritage town, Barkerville lies quiet for much of the winter but comes alive in early February as hundreds of enthusiastic huskies pull their sleds in a lively race through the neighboring towns.
A Tranquil Finale at Fawn Lake
In contrast, the atmosphere at Fawn Lake—approximately 300 kilometers south—was peaceful and subdued. The water had frozen to a depth of 30 centimeters, thick enough for walking but still inviting for ice fishing. Like a mirage in a desert, three colorful tents dotted the ice, offering refuge with gas fires, hot chocolate, bait, hooks, rods, and drilled holes. It didn’t take long before a 1.4-kilogram tortoiseshell burbot took my bait, and while it may not have been a lynx or moose, it felt like a triumphant conclusion to my time in this incredible wilderness.
Getting There
Air Canada offers flights from Heathrow to Vancouver, with onward connections to Kamloops.
Where to Stay
- Days Inn’s 100 Mile House is an excellent base for fishing at Fawn Lake, with double rooms starting at £80.
- Best Western Williams Lake is conveniently located for Eco Tours BC, with doubles starting at £115.
- Wells Hotel, a charming establishment in a heritage town near Barkerville, offers doubles from £90.
More Information
For further details, visit landwithoutlimits.com.
