Discovering Narberth: A Gem of Pembrokeshire
Located in the heart of Pembrokeshire, the charming market town of Narberth is steeped in rich Celtic history. It finds its place in the earliest collection of Welsh prose tales, The Mabinogion, where the legendary hero Pwyll, Prince of Dyfed, holds court and meets his beloved Rhiannon. The town also flourished around the remnants of a 13th-century castle, which has been beautifully restored and opened to the public in 2006.
Getting There and Exploring
Narberth is conveniently situated 21 miles west of Carmarthen and just 11 miles east of Haverfordwest. The town is easily navigable on foot, allowing visitors to meander through its vibrant and colorful streets filled with independent shops and restaurants that celebrate originality and craftsmanship. A train service runs every two hours from Swansea, taking approximately one hour and 25 minutes, with stops in Carmarthen, Tenby, and Pembroke Dock before ferrying to Rosslare in Ireland. To explore beyond the town, a car is recommended.
Where to Stay
For a luxurious escape, consider the Grove of Narberth, located just two miles southwest of the town. Nestled within extensive grounds, this country hotel offers a fine dining experience alongside charming accommodations in the main house, dating back to the 1680s, or in cozy cottages scattered throughout the estate. The hotel boasts two dining options: the casual Artisan Brasserie and the elegant Fernery, both of which prioritize the use of regional Welsh produce, including ingredients sourced from their own kitchen garden. B&B rates start from £250, and an accessible room is available.
If you prefer a more central location, the Plas Hyfryd Hotel offers 15 rooms just a short stroll from Narberth’s high street, with B&B rates starting at £120, also featuring an accessible room.
Shopping in Narberth
Exploring the independent boutiques and art galleries is a delightful way to spend your time in Narberth. Begin at the bottom of the high street with the inspiring artwork at Oriel Q gallery (closed Sun–Tues), which has been an integral part of the local arts scene for two decades. Immerse yourself in the local Welsh arts and crafts at Golden Sheaf Gallery, or discover consumable gifts at Fire & Ice, a bottle shop offering a vast selection of locally produced beverages, including exceptional Still Wild gin and Barti rum. Don’t miss their delicious handcrafted ice cream, often made with these very spirits.
Narberth Museum’s bookshop, Chapter One, is renowned for having one of the best selections of local and Welsh-interest literature. Just five miles east of Narberth lies Pembrokeshire’s premier winemaker, Velfrey Vineyard, where you can sample exquisite wines such as the organic Naturiol or the rich sparkling Velfrey NV for £5, with an additional vineyard tour for £10.
Cozy Cafés
For a delightful morning treat, head to the artisan bakery Rock’n’Dough (Wed–Sat, 7am–2pm). Alternatively, the welcoming Plumvanilla Café, located adjacent to Narberth Museum, specializes in vegetarian fare and offers a bright, inviting atmosphere.
Rainy Day Activities
A visit to Narberth wouldn’t be complete without exploring its museum, housed in a refurbished alcohol storage warehouse at the lower end of town. Enter through the bookshop and ascend to discover a range of exhibits that delve into Narberth’s storied past, including a Mabinogion woodland glade that colorfully narrates the epic tale, and an interactive game that reveals the intricacies of medieval siege warfare. The Queen’s Hall, a long-established music venue, presents a variety of events, from live music and comedy to insightful talks and wellness workshops.
Drinks by the Fire
For a cozy fireside drink, The Angel, an 18th-century coaching inn at the top of the high street, is an ideal spot. Alternatively, The Star at the bottom of the high street, despite lacking a fire, is a beloved micropub known for its inviting atmosphere, featuring regular live music and a commitment to fostering conversations among patrons, rather than focusing on large-screen sports.
Dining Experience
Ultracomida, which straddles the line between café and restaurant, offers a taste of Spain in Narberth. Open from 10am to 5pm (Mon–Thu) and 9am to 10pm (Fri/Sat), it features a delectable selection of cured meats, fish, cheeses, and more in its deli, followed by a tapas bar where you can indulge in dishes like mojama agridulce—air-dried tuna served with vine tomatoes, goat’s cheese, and almonds.
For a more upscale dining experience, Annwn restaurant, helmed by forager extraordinaire Matt Powell, offers a 10-course set menu (dinner from 7.30pm, Thurs–Sun) featuring elaborate foraged dishes such as venison paired with hen of the woods, acorn, and hazelnut sauce, or chocolate cockle shells adorned with sea buckthorn. Annwn also provides regular foraging experiences for £70 per person, so be sure to reserve well in advance. Across the road, Top Joe’s serves mouthwatering Italian fare, including delightful pizzas.
Additionally, Hwb (open daily for lunch and dinner) occupies a transformed Victorian schoolhouse, featuring a street-food market with various vendors, including Top Beef (burgers), Grub (tacos), Tikka G (Indian street food), and Bee’s Thai Kitchen, all under one roof, complemented by a bar stocked with Tenby Brew Co beers. Of course, don’t forget to check out the restaurants at The Grove.
Spring Walks
On a dry day, consider embarking on an eight-mile out-and-back walk to the 13th-century Llawhaden Castle, which offers scenic streamside and riverside pathways. The journey begins from the car park next to Hwb.
Three Interesting Facts About Narberth
- 1) Notable artists such as Elton John and Status Quo have performed at Narberth’s Queen’s Hall, enhancing the town’s cultural landscape.
- 2) Narberth is twinned with Ludlow in Shropshire, both towns hosting annual food festivals celebrating local cuisine.
- 3) The town played a significant role during the Rebecca Riots (1839-1843), when men from West Wales disguised themselves as women to protest against the oppressive tollgates on rural roads.
