Unpacking the Gender Disparity in the Culinary World
What came first: the pervasive sexism within restaurant kitchens or the glaring lack of female representation at the Michelin Star awards? Is the absence of investment in female chefs a consequence of their near-exclusion from restaurant reviews, media interviews, and documentaries? These cyclical questions have occupied my thoughts over the past two weeks, especially in light of a recent Michelin ceremony that awarded just one female chef a new star. This prompted celebrity chef Jason Atherton to claim that sexism in the restaurant industry is a relic of the past, while 70 women in hospitality expressed their outrage through an open letter.
The statistics surrounding female chefs in the UK are as disheartening as they are familiar: only 17 percent of professional chefs are women, and just seven out of London’s 75 Michelin-starred restaurants are led by women. In 2021, I authored a book titled The Female Chef, highlighting 30 women who are reshaping Britain’s culinary landscape; since then, only two new female-led restaurants have received Michelin stars.
In their open letter published in The Telegraph, prominent chefs including Sally Abé, Chantelle Nicholson, Dara Klein, and Joké Bakare articulated the inequalities they have encountered in British restaurants. They stated, “Sexism has been and remains a pervasive issue in our industry, shaping the culture of our kitchens in ways that diminish the potential and contributions of countless talented women… from inappropriate comments and behaviors to unequal opportunities for advancement.” Helen Graham, a former executive chef at the beloved London restaurant Bubala and a signatory of the letter, emphasized that this behavior is so ingrained that it often goes unrecognized as sexism, allowing the industry to overlook it. “Women have been made to feel uncomfortable or scared in the workplace for too long, and we need real change: more women in managerial roles, greater accountability, and safer spaces to report sexism,” she remarked.
The testimonies of harassment, verbal and physical abuse, and prejudice faced by female chefs seem to echo sentiments from a bygone era: being cornered, groped, told to “man up,” or informed that promotions would be withheld because they might have children. Such experiences stem from a workplace culture that, in many respects, has remained stagnant for decades.
The hierarchical, hyper-masculine brigade system that prevails in many restaurant kitchens was developed by Auguste Escoffier at the Savoy Hotel in the early 1900s, coinciding with the inception of the Michelin guide. This system has perpetuated a range of egregiously gendered stereotypes surrounding cooking and the culinary profession. “There is this stereotype of women being cooks at home. Then when someone says the word ‘chef,’ there is immediately this poster-boy image,” explains Vanessa Dorward, executive chef at Bingham Riverhouse. It’s a familiar image: stressed, attractive, tattooed men who can supposedly “handle the heat,” and whose outbursts are often celebrated as signs of tortured genius. They grace magazine covers, showcase their skills on cooking shows, and are glorified in media portrayals. What they do is a blend of science, art, labor, and pain—but never something as ordinary as cooking.
Both male chefs and the media representation of them reinforce these stereotypes, potentially deterring some women (and men) from embracing the title of “chef.” One chef who has distanced herself from the term is Asma Khan of Darjeeling Express, who believes it is too closely tied to systemic inequalities within the hospitality sector. Khan has fostered a collaborative kitchen environment where every team member is paid equally and work schedules are designed to allow a balance between professional and personal lives.
She is among a group of pioneering restaurateurs demonstrating that a kinder, more equitable kitchen with reasonable hours does not impede culinary success. Yet, these metrics have yet to be acknowledged by the most prestigious awards. In a misguided attempt to highlight female chefs, Michelin produced a video during the ceremony that only reinforced stereotypes about women in the culinary world. “It was deeply problematic,” Sally Abé asserts, criticizing the video for its focus on why Clare Smyth (three Michelin Stars) hasn’t had children, how often Chantelle Nicholson (one Michelin Green Star) gets her hair cut, and how much time Ash and Erin Valenzuela-Heeger (Young Chef Award) spend together.
“Men would never be asked about the mundane details of their personal lives,” remarks Gemma Bell, whose PR firm represents numerous Michelin-starred restaurants and chefs. “Can you imagine a male Michelin-star chef being interviewed on stage about how he balances work with childcare?”
According to Nicholson, the video missed the mark entirely. “The intention to showcase wonderful female chefs was commendable, but it was not executed in an appropriate setting, nor did it celebrate the women involved,” she notes. To laud female chefs and then award 21 men alongside just one woman, Emily Roux, a new Michelin star, while presenting her with a jacket clearly designed for men, feels at the very least tokenistic, if not outright insulting.
“I understand that Michelin isn’t responsible for running restaurants, but they are the most respected and sought-after guide in the world,” Abé emphasizes. “They possess significant power and resources, which could be directed toward genuinely supporting women in this industry.”
No one knows who the inspectors are or how they determine who earns these coveted awards; everyone is acutely aware of the stress associated with obtaining and maintaining them. Sheila Dillon, a journalist and presenter of The Food Programme, highlights “the appalling stress, the mental health issues, and even suicides linked to some of the star-studded restaurants.” She adds, “It seems absurd that those women who are transforming kitchen culture and improving the workplace environment are not being recognized by Michelin.”
Moving Towards Change
While much of Michelin’s allure lies in its mystery, this same secrecy shields it from critical examination. “They pride themselves on impartiality, claiming to judge solely on the quality of food,” Roux explains. Yet, as Abé points out, “It’s challenging to engage with a system when you don’t know the rules, let alone win.” This encapsulates how systemic oppression operates: it creates an exclusive club that many feel they will never join.
“I’m certain that behaviors in kitchens and attitudes would shift rapidly if workplace culture were a criterion in Michelin’s evaluations,” argues Adam Hyman, founder of CODE, a resource platform for hospitality professionals. Even if Michelin doesn’t incorporate this aspect into their assessments, there are other ways they could support young women pursuing culinary careers and reverse the trend of women feeling compelled to leave the industry. “They should establish scholarships to encourage women to enter the field, as well as provide more support and visibility for their success,” Hyman suggests.
In Nicholson’s view, many restaurants that she considers deserving of a Michelin star often lack the extensive PR machinery that typically garners attention. “It’s always funding that holds us back,” says chef Julie Lin of GaGa in Glasgow. “The majority of investors are male,” Bell adds, noting that many tend to favor investing in male-led ventures.
Bell also expresses dismay at the continued underrepresentation of female chefs in the media. “The glorification of toxic kitchen culture must end,” Graham states firmly. “We should instead celebrate the incredible women who are nurturing and compassionate leaders in the culinary space.”
Dillon concurs, stating, “These women are engaged in thrilling, innovative culinary practices. They are reshaping culture, fostering better workplaces, and prioritizing sustainability. These values resonate with diners and aspiring chefs alike, highlighting a growing disconnect between Michelin’s criteria and what the industry and public expect from restaurants.”
Ultimately, the women behind the open letter—and the many others who stand in solidarity—are not merely seeking better representation at Michelin, in the media, or at the World’s 50 Best awards. They demand an end to separate award categories, gendered assumptions about stamina and capability, and the narrow perspectives that deem them less worthy than their male counterparts. They desire mentorship, training programs, and equitable hiring practices that support chefs of all genders and backgrounds. They advocate for systemic change, and the world is finally starting to heed their call: they can withstand the pressure—and they want patriarchy out of the kitchen.
