It’s hard to envision a place more distant from the glamour of Paris or the sunny allure of the Côte d’Azur than Clermont-Ferrand. With weather reminiscent of Edinburgh and a Gothic architectural style to match, this city is steeped in a history that is as explosive as it is intertwined with tales of witchcraft. Clermont-Ferrand captivates those who appreciate moody landscapes, unexplored hiking paths, and an abundance of cheese—lots and lots of cheese.
Nestled in the heart of the diagonale du vide (the empty diagonal), which represents one of France’s least populated areas, Clermont-Ferrand is somewhat challenging to access, even for the French. Currently, there are no TGV high-speed trains servicing the city (although a long-anticipated line from Paris is projected to commence in 2030, the construction debate continues), meaning that most visitors arrive by car.
The Gothic-style Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption Cathedral looms over the city, creating a dramatic skyline (Photo: lucentius/Getty Images). However, with the introduction of twice-weekly direct flights from Stansted starting in late March, Clermont-Ferrand is poised to become a convenient weekend getaway for British travelers.
The city itself has an unusual appearance. On my first visit over a decade ago, I found it difficult to pinpoint what made it feel so distinct. Then it struck me—how rare it is to find a large city without a river. Even with the twin spires of the 13th-century cathedral towering over 100 meters above street level, the absence of a river complicates your sense of direction. Both the cathedral and the old town appear blackened by time and industry, as if pulled from a Dickensian narrative, but this dark hue is simply a reflection of their historical roots.
Exploring the City
Clermont-Ferrand sits at the base of the Chaîne des Puys volcanoes, which have been dormant for over 8,000 years, and is constructed largely from volcanic stone. The cathedral is both magnificent and imposing, casting an oppressive shadow over the city. It’s the kind of place that seems to have instilled a deep sense of fear of the divine among its inhabitants over centuries. Beneath the surface lies a labyrinth of tunnels designed to evacuate residents in times of invasion, which, until recently, were primarily utilized for cheese storage—Saint-Nectaire cheese, to be precise, which ages particularly well underground.
At the Halle Gourmande Saint-Pierre market, La Maison du Bon Fromage showcases a variety of excellent cheeses, including the renowned Saint-Nectaire, mostly aged on straw in volcanic caves. Although few tunnels are open to the public, for a deeper dive into Clermont-Ferrand’s more mysterious side, visitors can join an English-language ghost tour led by the charismatic American historian Dr. Drew Manns. The tour includes stops at a poisoner’s laboratory, a school known for demonic séances, and the remnants of a prison where members of the Knights Templar were accused of sorcery and subjected to torture.
For a long time, Clermont-Ferrand seemed to embrace its somber aesthetic, but in 2016, a group of street artists began to inject vibrancy into the city’s industrial structures, adding a splash of color that was much needed. Now, numerous mosaics by Invader, yarn-bombed trees, and entire buildings adorned with vibrant murals can be found throughout the city. The five largest murals are easily accessible without a guide, with maps available at the tourist office.
The closest volcano, Puy-de-Dôme, topped with an observatory that measures climate change, is a prominent feature visible from the city. Reaching its summit involves a hike of approximately 90 minutes from the Col de Ceyssat car park (just a 15-minute drive from Clermont-Ferrand) or a quick 15-minute ride on the cog train. While the trails may be quieter than those in the popular Alps, they have seen millions of visitors over the years. The Temple of Mercury at the summit, established in the 2nd century, has long been a favored pilgrimage site.
Clermont-Ferrand boasts another noteworthy claim to fame: in 1889, the Michelin brothers founded their tyre factory here, and in 1900, they launched the first Michelin guide. Originally intended to encourage motorists to explore the countryside and, in turn, purchase more tyres, this guide has since become iconic. Car enthusiasts can admire the first Michelin tyres on carriages at the L’Aventure Michelin museum, which also features the famous giant Bibendum Michelin man (Photo: HJBC/Getty Images).
Most restaurants in Clermont-Ferrand prioritize hearty Auvergnian cuisine over fine dining, but Michelin-starred Apicius offers the city’s most exquisite menu, featuring dishes garnished with enough edible flowers to create a floral bouquet. Meanwhile, L’Ostal, another Michelin-starred establishment, has earned a Green star for its commitment to supporting local producers.
- Auvergnian wine, often overlooked, is experiencing a renaissance, and Suzanne Bar a Manger serves a delightful selection of local organic wines alongside hearty, affordable tapas.
- However, beer remains the beverage of choice in the city, with La Bamboche being a reliable spot for craft brews.
If you plan to visit by air, ensure you book hold baggage. One of Clermont-Ferrand’s most historic trades is knife-making, and local schoolchildren often learn this craft. With an extra day to spare, you can even create your own knife in workshops led by blacksmith Mathis in Vertaizon, located just 20 km away.
Since my first visit twelve years ago, Clermont-Ferrand has undergone remarkable changes; once dominated by betting bars, the city now boasts a thriving craft brewery scene and vibrant street art that has transformed the stone buildings. If the TGV finally arrives, expect the pace of transformation to accelerate even further.
Getting there
Ryanair launches twice-weekly flights from Stansted to Clermont-Ferrand starting on March 30.
Staying there
Hôtel Littéraire Alexandre Vialatte, named after a local author, features a charming bookshop within its bar. Rates for doubles start at €101 (£84).
More information
Visit clermontauvergnevolcans.com for further details.
